The Case for Cooking with Lard: A Return to Flaky, Flavorful Pastry

Why Lard Disappeared from Our Kitchens

For most of the 20th century, lard was a staple in American cooking. Then, in the 1980s and 1990s, it was demonized as a saturated fat linked to heart disease. Butter and vegetable shortening took its place in pie crusts and frying pans. But lard is making a comeback, and for good reason: it produces some of the flakiest, most tender pastries and the crispiest, most flavorful fried foods you can make at home.

We're not talking about the bland, hydrogenated blocks you find at the grocery store. We're talking about real, unprocessed leaf lard — the fat from around the pig's kidneys. It has a neutral flavor, a high smoke point (around 370°F/188°C), and a chemical structure that makes it ideal for baking.

What Makes Lard Different from Butter and Shortening

The key to flaky pastry is fat that remains solid at room temperature but melts quickly in the oven, creating steam pockets. Lard's crystals are larger than butter's, which means it cuts through flour more easily, creating larger, more distinct layers. Butter adds flavor and water, but it can also make dough tougher if overworked. Shortening is flavorless and has a waxy mouthfeel. Lard strikes a balance: it's neutral-tasting (especially leaf lard) but gives a light, airy texture that's hard to beat.

For frying, lard's high smoke point means you can get chicken or potatoes golden brown without the oil breaking down. The fat also imparts a subtle savory richness that vegetable oils lack.

Sourcing and Rendering Lard

The best lard comes from pastured pigs. Look for "leaf lard" from a local butcher or farmers' market. If you can't find it, you can render your own from back fat or leaf fat. Rendering is simple: cut the fat into small pieces, place in a heavy pot with a little water, and cook over low heat until the fat melts and the solids crisp. Strain through cheesecloth, and you have pure lard. Store it in the fridge for up to six months or in the freezer for a year.

How to Render Lard at Home

1. Chop 2 pounds of leaf lard into 1-inch cubes.
2. Place in a Dutch oven with 1/4 cup water.
3. Cook over very low heat, stirring occasionally, for 1–2 hours, until the fat is melted and the cracklings are golden.
4. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth.
5. Pour into glass jars, cool, and refrigerate.

One pound of raw fat yields about 1.5 cups of rendered lard. If you're using back fat, the flavor is slightly more porky, which is great for savory dishes but may be too strong for sweet pastries.

Making the Perfect Lard Pie Crust

Our go-to recipe uses a mix of lard and butter: the lard for flakiness, the butter for flavor. Here's the ratio: 2.5 cups all-purpose flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/2 cup cold lard, 1/2 cup cold butter, and about 1/2 cup ice water. Cut the fats into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse meal with some pea-sized pieces. Add water gradually, mix until just combined, and chill for at least 30 minutes before rolling.

The key is to handle the dough as little as possible. Overworking develops gluten, which makes the crust tough. With lard, you'll notice the dough rolls out more easily and is less likely to shrink in the oven. Bake at 425°F (220°C) for 15 minutes, then reduce to 375°F (190°C) for the remaining time. The result: a crust that shatters with a spoonful of apple filling.

Frying with Lard: Chicken and More

For fried chicken, lard is the secret. It gets chicken shatteringly crisp without absorbing too much oil. We use a 50/50 mix of lard and peanut oil for frying — peanut oil for its high smoke point, lard for flavor. Heat the fat to 350°F (177°C) and maintain that temperature. If it's too low, the chicken absorbs oil; too high, it browns before the inside cooks. The lard also gives the crust a light, non-greasy texture that's noticeably better than all-oil frying.

Potatoes fried in lard are equally transformative. Classic Belgian frites are traditionally cooked in beef fat, but lard works beautifully too. Cut russets into 1/4-inch sticks, soak in cold water for 30 minutes, dry thoroughly, then fry at 325°F (163°C) for 4–5 minutes, remove, then fry again at 375°F (190°C) until golden. This double-fry method gives you crunchy outsides and fluffy interiors.

Nutritional Facts and Misconceptions

Lard is about 45% monounsaturated fat and 40% saturated fat. It has less saturated fat than butter (40% vs 63%) and more monounsaturated fat. It also contains vitamin D, which is rare in foods. The "lard is bad" belief stems from partial hydrogenation, which creates trans fats — but traditional lard is not hydrogenated. In fact, the American Heart Association now recognizes that saturated fat isn't as harmful as once thought, and the 2020-2025 Dietary Guidelines for Americans no longer limit dietary cholesterol.

That said, lard is calorie-dense (9 calories per gram), so moderation is key. But for occasional baking and frying, it's a delicious and traditional choice.

Lard vs. Butter vs. Shortening: A Comparison

For most home cooks, a combination of lard and butter is the best of both worlds.

Storing and Using Lard in Everyday Cooking

Rendered lard keeps for months in the fridge. It's also great for roasting vegetables — toss potatoes or carrots in a tablespoon of melted lard before roasting for a crisp, savory crust. You can also use it to make refried beans, pie crusts, or even biscuits. The flavor is subtle enough that it won't overpower other ingredients.

One tip: if you're using lard for sweet baking, make sure it's leaf lard, not back fat. Back fat can have a stronger pork flavor that clashes with sugar. Leaf lard is virtually flavorless.

Conclusion: Bring Lard Back

Lard is not a relic of the past; it's a versatile, flavorful fat that deserves a place in your kitchen. Start with a simple pie crust or a batch of fried chicken. You'll notice the difference immediately — flakier, crisper, and more delicious than anything made with shortening. And supporting local farmers who raise pastured pigs is a win for your community and your plate.